Madagascar Getting Around

Getting Around

By plane Air Madagascar serves numerous destinations throughout the country, which is a good thing considering the bad state of the roads. Besides the big cities, lots of little hamlets are also served. After the events of 2002, many airports were closed, so it is preferable to inform yourself from the company before reserving a flight. Passengers who arrive in Madagascar on a long-haul flight from Air Madagascar can benefit from reductions on the order of 25% on the company's internal flights. By train There are three rail lines in Madagascar : Antananarivo-Ambatondrazaka via Moramanga, which is currently inactive but may be restarted soon Antananarivo-Antsirabe Fianarantsoa-Manakara The Malagasy railway network dating from the colonial period, breakdowns are frequent. It can also happen that a line is closed for several weeks. There is also a private micheline which assures the link between Antananarivo and Toamasina. This historic train runs only on previous reservation (at least one month in advance) and the price is interesting only if all 18 seats are full. The train is not the fastest and most comfortable means of travel, but it lets you admire the magnificent landscapes (especially on the line connecting Fianarantsoa to Manakara) and discover the Malagasy fruits and dishes offered at every stop. You can taste what is in season at little cost : crayfish, bananas, cinnamon apples, sambos, zebu sausages, oranges... By Taxi-Brousse This is the way most natives travel around the country. There is only one major modern road in the country and that runs from Tana, the capital, to Tulear, a south-western coastal town. Trip between the two towns takes about a day whereas traveling between Tana and Fort-Dauphin, a south-eastern coastal town, would take about 3 or 4 days due to the condition of the road. Travel is cramped and don't expect air conditioning. By Taxi-Be In Tana, the cheapest way to get around is by taxi-be, or big taxi, which is a bit larger than a mini-van. There is one aisle with seats to fold down so they can cram in even more people. During peak hours, buses run frequently. By Boat If you are looking for an unusual holiday, a yacht charter to Madagascar will not disappoint. You can be sure that your neighbors have not been there and done that… For those who would like to bareboat, a “guide” is usually included in the price of the yacht charter. Although not obligatory, he comes with the price and is essential for the multitude of services he will provide. He will prepare the food, recommend anchorages, know where to fish and refill the water tanks. He will speak the local language and have an established relationship with the local people. He will protect the boat from theft when you leave it to explore on land. The guide lives completely on the exterior of the boat and does not require a cabin. A yacht charter to Madagascar is a bit of a “Robinson Crusoe” adventure. Once you embark, you will not be able to provision again and must live off the fish and seafood you will catch for yourself (or with your guide). So take great care with your provisioning list. By Bicycle Madagascar is a great place to tour by bike and staying in small towns and villages along the way gives a real sense of what the country is all about. A mountain bike or heavy duty tourer at least is required as the roads can be in poor to terrible condition. In rainy season on the East coast the main North-south road can become impassable and at the time I did it we had to walk 2 days over soft sand in one section - this is not an easily rideable route. Generally there is little to no traffic which makes cruising around a great pleasure. The people are amazingly friendly and you'll be greeted with crowds of kids shouting 'Vazaha' in every village. There are little or no facilities for cyclists, so be prepared to camp rough (ask if it is somebody's land and never too near a family grave) or sleep in very basic guesthouses. Likely you will be invited to stay in people's houses. Bring a spare tyre, puncture kit, chain, brake/gear cable, derailleur and all the tools you need.