Hamadan
Overview
Hamadan is a pleasant enough city on the fringes of Kurdistan,fairly easily reachable from elsewhere in Iran. It is an ancient location,the major classical persian city Ecbatana was located here,and just outside the center you can wander through excavated parts,although there's not a lot of interest to be seen if you're not an archeological buff. What is nice though,is the cool mountains just outside town where you can have chai next to a nice waterfall with ancient texts commisioned by Xerxes and Cyrus the great hewn in the rocks nearby. Other point of interest is the 14th c tomb of Esther and Mordechai,Esther being credited with introducing the jewish faith in ancient persia though her husband the ruler. The caretaker is an elderly french-speaking jew who can tell some interesting stuff about the still existing millenia old jewish community in the city(nowadays just a dozen or so families).Finally,not many travellers venture here,you'll be an attraction by itself(especially 3 young,tall,blond europeans) and every less shy student of english will politely approach you,which makes it very easy to find a willing and free guide. NOTE: I was there in 2000,so write from recollection..
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