Alexandria

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Overview

Alexandria (الإسكندرية al-Iskanderiyya), Egypt's second largest city (after the capital Cairo) and the country's window on the Mediterranean Sea, is a faded shade of its former glorious cosmopolitan self, but still worth a visit for its many cultural attractions and memories of a glorious past. Alexandria nonetheless remains an important city, as Egypt's chief seaport on the Mediterranean and a home to at least 3.5 million Egyptians.

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History

Sic transit gloria mundi - Alexandria was the eponymous foundation (in 334 BCE) of the Macedonian conquerer Alexander the Great (Iskander al-Akbar), a rival of Rome in its heyday, and the world's greatest center of learning for millennia... now a dusty seaside Egyptian town with an over-inflated population of 5 million. The French-style parks and the occasional French street sign survive as a legacy of Napoleon, one of Alexandria's many conquerors. But the final blow came when Gamal Abdel Nasser nationalized most of Alexandria's Greek-owned businesses, leading to an exodus of 50,000 Greeks from the country - but the few remaining Greek restaurants and cafés still dominate the cultural scene.

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General Health and Safety

Street kids harass tourists with offers to sell bango (marijuana) and nimble fingers probing pockets. They will usually desist after a stern La! or two. Although almost every traveler in Egypt has a safe visit, a bus in Cairo was blown up on April 30, 2005, killing three tourists. Travelers are advised to avoid political gatherings and demonstrations. The recent bombings in Sharm el-Sheikh has, with some understanding, caused much worry to those travelling to Egypt. Since the 1997 masacre of tourists at Queen Hatshepasut's Temple in Luxor (a tragedy where the finger was squarely pointed at the security services) visitor protection has been greatly improved. In fact, it is not uncommon for tourists travelling by road to recieve an armed escort, especially in the presence of women and children. Tourism is much the life blood of Egypt and it seems that they have properly woken up to this by offering such reassurance. In Alexandria, crime is perhaps as bad as anywhere else in Egypt: only really found where invited. Therefore, a few rules of thumb should see anyone through: Never wear a bum-bag/fanny-pack...more

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